Coopers beer concentrate instructions. Coopers European Lager Malt Extract

Malt extract Coopers European Lager will provide the opportunity to create a light, light beer with a rich color, has a wonderful aroma, is famous for its color and clarity...

To prepare 23 l. beer approximately 4.5% alc. about. required:
Coopers 1.7kg can of concentrated wort.
1 kg dextrose (glucose) or 1.25 kg unhopped malt extract
1 sachet of brewing yeast (10 g)
Coopers jars already have the yeast under the lid.
Water.

Equipment

1. Capacity about 32 liters.
2. Water seal.
3. Silicone or food grade PVC tube for pouring, de-sludge of beer, and bottling.
4. PET containers or glass bottles for bottling 23 liters of finished beer.
5. Hydrometer for measuring and monitoring the fermentation process and determining the final density.
6. Thermometer for temperature control.
All equipment must be washed and disinfected. Rinse all equipment thoroughly after disinfection. Do not use homemade cleaners or compounds.
By diluting the kit to 18 liters instead of 23, the result will be a beer with a fuller, rounded aroma and an alcohol content of approximately 6%.
Note - when using unhopped wort or dry malt concentrate, they must be boiled for 10-15 minutes.

Fermentation

1. Pour 2 liters into a saucepan. water, heat, add dextrose (glucose), boil for 30 minutes. over low heat, add concentrated wort, bring to a boil, leave to cool under closed lid for some time (10-15 min.).
2. Pour 15 liters into an empty sterile container. cold water, add wort with syrup, cold water bring to a volume of 23 liters. Stir.
The temperature of the wort before adding yeast should be 18 - 28 C.
3. Scatter the yeast over the surface of the beer and close the lid.
4. Leave the container in a warm place at a temperature of 18 - 24 C; the beer will ferment for approximately 4 to 8 days.
5. Before pouring the beer, you need to check whether fermentation has ended or not. Signs of the end of fermentation: no bubbles should rise to the surface, the beer becomes clear. Hydrometer readings should not exceed 2%.
6. It is advisable to additionally remove the beer from the sediment; to do this, you need to carefully pour the beer into a sterile container without lifting the yeast from the bottom, and leave it to settle for 24 hours, then remove it from the sediment again, before adding sugar for further fermentation. It is important to ensure that fermentation is completely complete before bottling the beer, otherwise there is a risk of bottle rupture.

After-fermentation. Beer maturation.

1. During the fermentation and maturation process, your beer will become saturated with carbon dioxide, which adds life and sparkle to the beer.
2. Prepare sugar syrup: per 100 gr. water 170 gr. dextrose (glucose). Add the syrup to the skimmed beer. Do not exceed the amount of sugar, otherwise the beer will be too carbonated. Using a siphon tube, pour the beer from the container into the bottles without adding 5cm. to the edge of the bottle.
3. Tightly screw or crown cap your bottles, place in a warm place at approximately 20 C and leave for approximately 7 days for secondary fermentation. Store beer in a dark place.
4. Then move the bottles to a cool place to allow the beer to mature. Ripening will take approximately two weeks. Once the beer is completely clear, it is ready to drink, but the taste will improve if it is left to mature for a month.
5. When bottling beer, be careful not to disturb the yeast sediment that will collect at the bottom of the bottle. You may like to pour the beer into a pitcher first. Drink chilled.
The gravity of your beer and the alcohol content can be varied, keeping the base of one or another type of malt extract. Note that the quality of beer made from one can of extract is generally improved by reducing the amount of water or sugar. Excessive dilution with water or additional sugar to increase the alcohol percentage will disrupt the full body and balance of the beer.
Sugar for the production of alcohol can be added not only in its pure form, but also in the form of additional malt extract.
If you dare to incur additional costs, you can use the same beer extract in an amount of 1.25 kg instead of 1 kg of sugar. The results will be obvious - your beer will gain more body, more rich taste and aroma and will become a true drink for a gourmet. In addition to the complete replacement of sugar with an extract, any partial ones are allowed. Just remember the proportion of 1.25 kg of malt concentrate or 1 kg of sugar.
Create - and you will have your own, unique beer!

There are two main options for making beer at home - extract and.

In the grain version, you prepare your own beer wort using one or another type of malt, hops and yeast. The wort preparation process consists of mashing, boiling and hopping.

In extract brewing, all the work of preparing the wort is already done for you. This is a can that contains already hopped beer, adjusted to a specific type of beer. For example, Wheat or Stout. This extract can only be diluted with water and fermented.

Instructions for brewing Coopers beer

Malt extracts (concentrate) are made from barley, wheat or rye malt. During the extraction process, the soluble components are separated from the husks and other solid impurities, then the resulting solution is concentrated to the consistency of a thick syrup, which is the malt extract.

This substance has excellent stability due to the minimal amount of water and high sugar content, which makes it possible to do without the use of preservatives.

Coopers hopped beer wort concentrate

You can make excellent beer from extracts using.

All equipment must be washed and disinfected. Disinfection of equipment is carried out before each preparation of beer by boiling, using special means, soda or iodine. Rinse all equipment thoroughly after disinfection. Do not use homemade cleaners or compounds.

In these instructions, the word “sugar” means regular sugar, dextrose (glucose), and even honey. Whoever likes it. It is believed that dextrose (glucose) gives a purer taste to the drink, and after sugar, sometimes a yeasty taste can appear, which disappears during longer aging. Great option- use the same wort as sugar, only unhopped.

Fermentation

1. Place the jar with the extract in hot water for 10 minutes. This will soften the contents of the jar, and the extract will be easier to pour out.

2. Pour 2 liters into the pan. water, heat, add sugar, boil for 30 minutes. over low heat, add the extract from the jar, bring to a boil and leave to cool with the lid closed for 10-15 minutes.
Ideally, as a replacement for sugar in the main fermentation, you need to use special mixtures or, which include dextrose and maltodextrin, which improve the body and taste of your homemade beer.

3. Pour 15 liters into a disinfected container. cold water, add the wort with syrup from the pan and bring the volume to 23 liters with cold water. Stir.
The temperature of the wort before adding yeast should be 20 - 26 ° C. It is usually indicated on the jar or bag of yeast.

4. Sprinkle the yeast evenly over the surface of the beer and close the lid.

According to the manufacturer's recommendation, you can rehydrate the yeast. Rehydration is the activation of dry yeast (watering).
For this you need any small container of about 300-500 ml. You can disinfect it with an aqueous solution of iodine for 5 minutes. Pour boiled water into it, bring the water temperature to 27° C (for lager yeast 23° C) and carefully pour the yeast into it. They will gradually sink to the bottom (15-30 minutes). Next, continue stirring slowly for another 30 minutes. Then inoculate the fermentation tank with the resulting yeast suspension.

5. Close the lid tightly and insert the water seal into it, filling it to the mark boiled water. Leave the container in a warm place at a temperature of 22° - 25° C. Fermentation will begin in 5-12 hours. The beer will ferment for approximately 7 to 10 days.

6. Before pouring the beer, you need to check whether fermentation is complete. Signs of the end of fermentation: no bubbles should rise to the surface, the beer becomes clearer. Hydrometer readings should not exceed 2-3%.

7. If you have another free container, you can additionally remove the sediment from the beer before adding sugar for further fermentation. To do this, you need to carefully pour the beer into another disinfected container, without lifting the yeast from the bottom.

Carbonation and maturation of beer.

The carbonation and maturation process will infuse your beer with carbon dioxide, which adds life and sparkle to the beer.

In our case, there are two options for adding sugar for carbonation.

Option 1. This option is applicable if you skimmed the beer from the yeast sediment, i.e. poured into another container.
Prepare sugar syrup: 200 gr. water 210 gr. Sahara. Bring to a boil. Cool to 25° C. Add the resulting syrup to the beer removed from the sediment and mix carefully. Next, using a tube, pour the beer from the container into bottles, not adding 5 cm to the edge of the bottle.

Option 2. Using a funnel, add sugar to the bottles at the rate of 7-9 grams per liter and pour into the beer.

You can also use special Coopers candies for carbonation and post-fermentation in bottles. Approximately 2-3 lollipops per 1 liter.

Do not exceed the amount of sugar, otherwise the beer will be highly carbonated. In this case, the bottles can even explode from high pressure.

When pouring, lower the silicone tube to the very bottom of the bottle.
After racking, seal your bottles and place in a dark place at 25°C for approximately 10-12 days to ferment and carbonate.

The taste will improve if the beer is left to mature for a month.

When tasting the beer, try not to disturb the yeast sediment that will collect at the bottom of the bottle. You can pour the beer into a jug first. Drink chilled.
Rinse the bottles with water immediately after they are empty to make it easier to clean and disinfect them next time.

Homemade beer from Coopers concentrates

Your beer's gravity and alcohol content can be varied. The quality of beer made from one can of extract is generally improved by reducing the amount of water and sugar. Excessive dilution with water or additional sugar to increase the alcohol percentage will lead to a lack of full body and unbalanced taste of the beer.

This instruction will introduce you to the standard procedure for preparing beer in a home mini-brewery “COOPERS DIY”. Using the included ingredients, you can prepare 23 liters of beer in approximately 2 weeks.

Once you are familiar with the basic principles of beer brewing, you will be able to prepare a variety of beers using COOPERS ingredients and recipes.

Download instructions for the Coopers DIY home microbrewery.

Coopers DIY package

Fermentation tank, 25 l. (consists of: lower part, lid, transitional middle part for separating spent yeast);
LCD thermometer;
Mixing paddle 50 cm;
Tube with valve for dispensing beer into bottles;
Hydrometer in a plastic cylinder;
Faucet assembly;
Lollipops - dextrose Coopers, 250 g;
Sugar - Coopers dextrose, 1 kg;
A can of Coopers Lager malt extract, with yeast under the lid;
PET bottles with a cap, 0.74 l each, 40 pcs.;
Instructions;
DVD with Video instructions;
Alcohol marker.

Preparing a home mini brewery

The beer making process is a biological process, sensitive to the environment and cleanliness. The key to a successful result is the absolute cleanliness of your equipment! ALL EQUIPMENT, with which future beer will come into contact, must be disinfected.

Disinfection

Disinfection is the most important stage in the process of brewing beer, because This kills microscopic bacteria, wild yeast and mold, which can ruin the taste of your beer. High-quality disinfection is one of the most important elements and the key to the high quality of your future beer. Neodisher CL (Germany) is a modern disinfectant and detergent for the home, containing 30% active chlorine. Neodisher is extremely convenient to use due to the fact that it is available in tablet form and is effective when processing food equipment and devices made of plastic, glass, steel, ceramics, and enamel. As a rule, 2 tablets are enough to sterilize all equipment, including bottles, that are involved in one “brew” of beer (i.e., usually 22-24 liters).

Preparation of disinfectant solution: Dissolve 1 tablet in 10 liters warm water(20°C), this will result in a 0.03% solution. Rinse all surfaces of the brewery and equipment used in the brewing process (opener, spoon....) with this solution and leave for 10-15 minutes. Then pour out the solution and rinse all equipment thoroughly with cool running water.

Note: When using the microbrewery for the first time, it is sufficient to rinse the fermentation tank and tap thoroughly.

Assembly

Assemble the faucet by installing the key in the faucet branch. Install the assembled tap into a special hole in the fermentation tank. The faucet fastener should close well.

Stick an LCD thermometer on the outside of the fermentation container.

Extract preparation.

Take the jar of extract, remove the plastic lid, take out the instructions and the packet of yeast.

Invert the jar and place it in a sink filled with hot water, for 10 minutes. This will soften the contents of the jar, and the extract will pour out more easily.

Preparation of wort and adding yeast

Using a can opener, open the jar of extract and pour the contents into a fermenter container. Add a certain amount of boiling water to the jar, dissolve all the wort remaining around the edges of the jar and pour it into the container.

Then add 1 kg of Coopers sugar to the brewer and pour 2 liters there. boiling water Mix everything thoroughly. Add cold water until the total volume of liquid in the brewer reaches 23 liters. Water must be reliable and of high quality, either filtered, purchased, or boiled. The quality of water greatly affects the taste and quality of your future beer.

Check the container temperature with a thermometer and make sure it is between 21°C and 27°C with an LCD thermometer. Insert the middle section of the fermenter, open the yeast packet, and sprinkle the yeast evenly over the surface of the wort. Place the lid on the fermenter.

Note: Once the fermenter is completely filled, it will be quite difficult to move it, so try to fill it with water already in the place where it will stand during primary fermentation.

Important: the yeast included in the kit will work at temperatures from 18°C to 30°C. However, yeast performs best at temperatures between 18°C and 25°C. If the temperature drops too low, fermentation will stop. If the temperature of the liquid is above 30°C, the yeast may die.

Measure the initial gravity of your beer.

In order to be able to determine the strength of your beer in the future, you need to measure its initial gravity. To do this, you need to use the hydrometer-hydrometer you have in your kit.

Remove the hydrometer from the cylinder, fill the cylinder 2/3 with beer, lower the hydrometer into it and lightly twist it clockwise. Look at what level relative to the top edge the hydrometer stops. This number will be your initial density. Write it down. As a rule, the initial gravity of beer is in the range (1.034 - 1.045). Each hydrometer reading corresponds to a specific alcohol reading.

Primary fermentation

After a few hours, fermentation should begin. The fermentation container is specially made as transparent as possible, which will allow you to observe all the processes happening with your beer. The main indicator of the start of fermentation will be the formation of a head of foam on the top layer of your young beer. As a rule, foam already appears within 5-12 hours after adding yeast. It is important during this period to try to disturb the yeast as little as possible, i.e. do not move or shake the container, keep away from drafts and sunlight.

After 3-4 days, the most vigorous stage of primary fermentation should pass, leaving a sediment of dried yeast on the inside of the middle part of the fermenter. If left as is, the beer will develop a yeasty flavor.

To determine the end of primary fermentation you will again need a hydrometer-hydrometer. Beginning on days 5-6, begin measuring the final gravity of your beer daily. When the readings are identical for two days in a row, the beer is fermented and ready to be bottled.

As a rule, the final gravity of beer stops at 1.004-1.008 on the hydrometer. With initial and final gravity readings, you can calculate the alcohol content of your beer.

Bottling

Before bottling beer, the day before, be sure to disinfect all containers into which you plan to bottle your beer, as well as the filter tube. To do this, take 1 Neodisher CL tablet. Dissolve it in 10 liters of warm water in any container, fill each bottle 1/3 full, shake. Leave all the bottles for 10 minutes, then pour out the solution and rinse the bottles several times with running, cool water. Don't forget to also wash bottle caps. Leave the bottles to dry before bottling.

Connect the filter tube and the tap, open the tap, the filter tube will fill with beer, but it will not flow until you place an empty bottle on the filter tube and the end of the tube touches the bottom of the bottle. Only then will the bottle begin to fill with beer. Fill the bottle leaving 3-5 cm to the top of the neck, otherwise the beer may be slightly carbonated. Fill the bottles until the container is almost empty. Approximately 2.5-3 cm to the bottom, it is better to stop filling the bottles with beer, as there is a high probability that a large amount of yeast will get into the bottle, which will negatively affect the taste of the beer.

Add sugar or glucose to the bottles. For several days this small portion The sugar is fermented by the yeast residue that remains in the body of your beer after it's been bottled. This period is also called secondary fermentation. Secondary fermentation is necessary in order to fill the young beer with carbon dioxide - this is when it will be a foamy, refreshing drink, as real beer should be. After this, in addition to the body, your beer will also have a “head” - foam above the mug!

Screw on all the bottles tightly with the caps that come with the brewer. After closing, invert the bottles 3-4 times to mix the dextrose into the beer and the dextrose candy begins to dissolve.

Your COOPERs kit contains dextrose drops (Carbonation Drops), which are an excellent sugar substitute that, when processed by yeast, produce a minimal amount of barley flavor that you might not like very much.

1 lollipop per 0.375 l bottle;
2 lollipops per 0.75 l bottle;
3 lollipops per 1 liter bottle;
4 lollipops per 1.5 liter bottle;
5-6 lollipops per 2 liter bottle.

This quantity is a guideline, and you can try different quantities of lollipops to determine which flavor is most suitable for you. It is important not to increase the number of candies from the base by more than 50% up or down.

Storage

Store beer bottles in a dark place away from sunlight at a temperature of 21-27°C for at least 14 days. After 14 days, you can try your beer by placing it in the refrigerator for 1-2 days. A longer shelf life will only make your beer tastier and better, the yeast sediment will be stronger and there will be less carbonation. We recommend aging beer for at least 4 weeks before drinking. It is also very useful to leave a few bottles for a longer period of time, and then try the beer after 3, 5, 7, 9 months, observing how its taste changes.

Making beer from extract

There are two main options for making beer at home - extract and grain.

In the grain version, you prepare your own beer wort using one or another type of malt, hops and yeast. The wort preparation process consists of mashing, boiling and hopping.

In extract brewing, all the work of preparing the wort is already done for you. This is a can that contains an already hopped beer wort extract, adjusted to a specific type of beer. For example, Wheat or Stout. This extract can only be diluted with water and fermented.

Instructions for brewing Coopers beer

This substance has excellent stability due to the minimal amount of water and high sugar content, which makes it possible to do without the use of preservatives.

You can make excellent beer from extracts using a home brewer.

In these instructions, the word “sugar” means regular sugar, dextrose (glucose), and even honey. Whoever likes it. It is believed that dextrose (glucose) gives a purer taste to the drink, and after sugar, sometimes a yeasty taste can appear, which disappears during longer aging. An excellent option is to use the same wort as sugar, only unhopped.

Any sugar that you will use for carbonation is recommended to be added in the form of syrup boiled for 10-15 minutes and cooled.

You can buy water or use regular tap water. It is better to let tap water sit for a day, or pass it through filters, or boil it.

To prepare 23 l. beer approximately 4.5% alc. about. required:

1. 1.7 kg jar of Coopers extract with yeast under the lid.
2. Sugar 1 kg.
3. Capacity 32 l.
4. Water seal.
5. Silicone tube for bottling.
6. PET containers or glass bottles for bottling 23 liters of finished beer.
7. Hydrometer-sugar meter for measuring and monitoring the fermentation process and determining density.
8. Thermometer for monitoring fermentation temperature.
9. Mixer paddle

Fermentation

1. Place the jar with the extract in hot water for 10 minutes. This will soften the contents of the jar, and the extract will be easier to pour out.

2. Pour 2 liters into the pan. water, heat, add sugar, boil for 30 minutes. over low heat, add the extract from the jar, bring to a boil and leave to cool with the lid closed for 10-15 minutes.
Ideally, Brew Enhancer-1 or Brew Enhancer-2, which contain dextrose and maltodextrin, will improve the body and flavor of your homebrew as a replacement for sugar in the main fermentation.

3. Pour 15 liters into a disinfected container. cold water, add the wort with syrup from the pan and bring the volume to 23 liters with cold water. Stir.
The temperature of the wort before adding yeast should be 24 - 26C. It is usually indicated on the jar or bag of yeast.

4. Sprinkle the yeast evenly over the surface of the beer and close the lid.

The main reason for failures in beer brewing is infection of beer (by pest bacteria) due to poor handling of equipment and insufficient cleanliness. First of all, all equipment and devices that come into contact with future beer must be cleanly washed and disinfected. Avoid using any cleaning products, including soap, unless they are specifically designed for brewing.

Washing

Soak equipment in water to soften dried residues. Remove any residue with a soft cloth and rinse with water. Pay attention to hard-to-reach areas such as threads and faucet spouts. NOTE: Do not use hard or abrasive materials for cleaning as they may scratch the plastic.

Disinfection

Pour half a cup of homemade bleach (unscented) into the fermenter and fill with cold water. Soak all equipment in the fermenter for at least 30 minutes. The fermenter lid should only be washed, rinse it with hot water.

Determination of alcohol content

For measurements, use a hydrometer or hydrometer to find out the relative density (SG) or mass fraction(MD). To convert mass fraction to relative density, use the formula: MD * 4 / 1000 +1 = SG

Alcohol content calculator for your beer:

Measure the initial gravity of the wort before adding OG yeast
Measure the final gravity of the beer after the end of fermentation SG

Example:

Initial density - OG 1.042 (10.5%)
Final density - SG 1.006 (1.5%)
For calculations, remove the separator point

OG – FG / 7.46 + 0.5 = approximate % alcohol by volume
1042-1006/7.46 +0.5 = 5.3% alc.vol.
Note: in the formula 0.5% is sugar added for post-fermentation.

1. Preparation of wort

Pour 2 liters of boiled hot water into the fermenter, add the contents of the jar, and 1 kg of sugar (unhopped extracts or glucose can be used instead of sugar). Pour cold water into the fermenter to the 20 liter mark, stir well with a plastic spoon and measure the temperature, ideally it should be 21-27°C. Add water to a volume of 23 liters using hot or cold (ice) water to bring the temperature to 21-27°C.

Measure initial gravity and add yeast. Important: even if the wort temperature is not ideal, but is between 18-32°C, add yeast anyway. The wort may become contaminated, so it is more important to add the yeast immediately than to try to reach the correct temperature. If you are unsure of the amount of hot and cold water required to achieve a temperature of 21-27°C, try filling the fermenter with no ingredients first to achieve the required temperature

2. Fermentation

Fermentation can be carried out using two methods: open (fermentation in an open container covered with a clean cloth) and closed (with a tightly closed lid and a water seal installed). Both fermentation methods are effective at temperatures of 18-32°C.

You can make great beer using open fermentation. However, it is better to give preference to the second method, because the container is protected by a lid and you will not have to rush to start bottling the beer immediately after fermentation is complete.

Temperature control

One of the important reasons for unsuccessful beer is non-compliance with the temperature regime. Yeast works well at temperatures between 18-32°C, but for best results we recommend keeping the fermentation temperature between 21-27°C. A few examples of equipment to maintain the required temperature: a warm box (an insulated box with a low-power incandescent lamp mounted inside), a heating mat, a surrounding heating pad, an immersion heater, installing the fermenter next to a heating radiator, thermal insulation of the fermenter, you can put the fermenter in a non-working refrigerator, cover the fermenter wet towels, etc.

3. Bottling beer

After about 4 days at a fermentation temperature of 27°C or 6 days at a temperature of 21°C (fermentation time decreases as the temperature increases), measure the final gravity of the beer. Fermentation is considered complete if the hydrometer readings remain the same for 2 days. Bottles must be washed and disinfected. For carbonation, you need to add sugar at the rate of 8 g per liter. One teaspoon contains 6 g of sugar (approximately 740-750 ml of beer)
Attention - glass bottles may break if the main fermentation has not been completed or the rate of adding sugar for post-fermentation has been exceeded.
Fill the bottles with beer, cap and invert several times to stir the sugar. Place the bottles vertically for at least 7 days for secondary fermentation (carbonation), the temperature should be above 18°C.
Note: If you leave the beer to mature for at least 3 months rather than two weeks, you will find that the aroma will improve, the gas bubbles will become smaller, and the yeast sediment will become more compact.

4. Enjoyment

Drink chilled. Carefully pour the beer into a glass goblet or mug without stirring the yeast sediment. Lovers unfiltered beer They can gently swirl the bottle to mix the yeast sediment into the beer.

Attention: Beer production is subject to excise tax, if you want to produce it for sale or other commercial use, do not forget about compliance with tax laws.

Common mistakes

Highly carbonated beer
- a lot of sugar was added for carbonation
- at some stage the beer was infected
- the main fermentation was not completely completed
Maintain fermentation temperature above 18°C. Use a hydrometer (hydrometer) to determine the end of fermentation.

Weak foam resistance
– a lot of water or a lot of sugar has been added (do not use more than 1 kg of sugar per 23 liters of beer)
- the dishes are poorly washed or rinsed (residues of grease or detergent on the dishes greatly affect the foam resistance)

White film on beer or sour taste (contamination)
– equipment is poorly washed and disinfected
- the wort remained without yeast for a long time
- the wort stood for a long time after the end of fermentation before bottling

Unpleasant aroma
- the beer may have been contaminated (see above)
- the temperature of the wort before pitching the yeast was high, and the yeast was unable to multiply and function properly

Note for Brewmaster Pisener and European Lager set.

These kits contain yeast with different characteristics, they differ from the Coopers yeast included in other kits. To improve the taste of beer, use unhopped concentrates instead of sugar or glucose. The preferred fermentation temperature is 13-21. At lower temperatures, fermentation time increases. Before bottling the beer, make sure that the beer is completely fermented. Lager yeast tends to produce sulfurous aromas (egg smell) during fermentation, but this disappears during bottle maturation.