Restaurant critic: sushi bar “Buba by Sumosan. Buba by Sumosan on Malaya Nikitskaya Street Buba sushi delivery

A democratic sushi bar Buba, owned by the legendary Moscow restaurant of Japanese cuisine, has opened on Malaya Nikitskaya Street. Despite the fact that this is already the second Buba in Moscow, it is so good that it deserves a separate and new story. And here’s the reason: for that kind of money - an average of 400 rubles for a set of six pieces - you won’t find tastier rolls in Moscow. Moreover, even for a lot of money you are unlikely to succeed. Only Sumosan itself can compete with Buba, whose prices are several times higher.

First Buba

The opening on the first floor of the City of Capitals tower, which took place a year ago, was not as noticeable as it deserved. There were several reasons for this. Firstly, a complex work schedule, depending on the routine of the business center. Secondly, the absence of walls in the restaurant: Buba in Moscow City is located right in the atrium. Finally, Sunday is a day off - all this made it difficult to perceive the establishment as convenient for visiting. Therefore, it was mainly business center workers who ate there. Now, with the flagship on Nikitskaya, everything should change.

Why is it delicious?

Because the owners of Sumosan cannot do otherwise. The restaurant is 18 years old, and people have always gone there for exceptionally high-quality, tasty and very expensive food. And when Alexander Volkov, restaurateur and restaurant owner, died, his daughters continued his business. Eight years ago, girls living in prosperity and accustomed to the best opened Sumosan in London. Both restaurants have the same permanent brand chef - Bubker Belkhit - and business in the UK is also going well. In general, this team creates restaurants primarily not to make money, but so that they and their surroundings feel good in them, so as not to discredit the memory of the past, so that it is delicious.

To make the project democratic, the team changed the recipes compared to Sumosan, which only made the rolls better and more interesting. The ingredients chosen were cheaper, but of high quality. There are no lobsters in sight - but there is the most delicate, sweet and smooth scallop, for comparison with which painfully indecent metaphors suggest themselves, so we’ll omit it.

Anna Maslovskaya's choice

Rolls "Buba"
380 rubles

Rolls “Crispy with salmon”
390 rubles

Tiradito-set
550 rubles

Beef burger
310 rubles

Rolls

The most important thing in Buba is the rolls. For an average of 400 rubles per serving of six pieces, you are guaranteed to get something that you are unlikely to get anywhere else for twice that amount. It's all about successful original recipes, quality of products and the integrity of the chefs working under the supervision of chef Stanislav Kim, former sous chef of Sumosan.

For the first time, take Buba (snapper, tonkatsu, wasabi, tobiko, Bell pepper), “Crispy with salmon” (crispy because of the tonkatsu), “Spicy roll with scallop” (that same sweet scallop, tobiko and special slightly spicy Buba mayonnaise) and “Roll with sea bass” (with truffle mayonnaise on top). The latter do not need to be supplied with sauce.

Sauce

At Buba you can order ponzu sauce for 50 rubles. I highly recommend ordering ponzu and using soy sauce instead. After this you will stop using it altogether. soy sauce, it's so delicious.

Rest of food

The Tiradito set here is more honest than, for example, about the same thing in Chicha. Perch, scallop, tuna, salmon, avocado cream with truffle, ponzu, all for 550 rubles - a super offer. There are two mini-burgers for 310 rubles. The beef patty burger includes sweet wasabi sauce made from “wasabi shrimp” and a piece sausage cheese. The tuna burger falls apart before you bite into it, but it's still delicious. Own bread.

Ponzu

Similar in taste and effect to vinegar and soy sauce, it is based on citrus juice and dashi. In addition, but at the chef’s choice: rice vinegar, mirin, kombu seaweed, flakes dried fish katsuobushi and so on.

The appetizers include “Ice Fish,” which is a salad. The dressing in it is the same as in the legendary “Lobster Salad” from Sumosan: ponzu, onions, mustard and olive oil. Those who love the original will definitely like it. The dish is served separately with signature spicy mayonnaise. The meat gyoza are excellent.

It’s interesting that truly tasty and interesting rolls for reasonable money appeared in Moscow only after they had completely ceased to be fashionable. Now we expect the same from burgers.

All dishes can be ordered home or to the office

Delivery is free, from 12:00 to 21:00 on weekdays and Saturdays, and on Sundays from 12:00 to 19:30. The minimum order amount within the Third Transport Ring is 1,500 rubles, within the Moscow Ring Road - 2 thousand rubles. You can order on the website or by calling the cafe.

PHOTOS: Yasya Vogelgardt

The large ceremonial restaurant of Japanese cuisine Sumosan for the elite of new Russia became a place that celebrated its successful transactions, major mergers, which accompanied important negotiations and meetings of politicians and businessmen

Every more or less important character of the era was noted within the walls of the Radisson Slavyanskaya Hotel, where the restaurant still cooks from the best and only Japanese products, which still arrive here by plane. But glamorous pathos is no longer the country's only bond. Buba by Sumosan is a response to the trend towards simplification, without allowing itself quality compromises. The model has already been tested in the City, now it’s time for the distant Patricks. Right next to the Brow Bar on Malaya Nikitskaya there was a small room that could accommodate an open kitchen, 25 visitors and one toilet, the road to which lies through the kitchen. The interior is designed in an industrial style with elements of Japanese design. Translated into Russian, this means that everything is very simple, minimalistic and not conducive to long feasts. The speed of output from the kitchen confirms the latter: four chefs, at machine gun speed, make sushi, roll rolls, prepare salads, appetizers, fry tempura and cook udon noodles (here for some reason they call them “udong”) according to the recipes of the brand chef of the Sumosan restaurant chain Bubker Belkhit . To keep prices down, Buba uses not Japanese products, but the best available. Yellowfin tuna, not blue, Indian shrimp, not Vietnamese, powdered wasabi, not natural - everything like that. There is a difference in taste, but this does not affect the quality of the dishes - everything turns out very tasty, without mistakes or mistakes. It’s worth taking a spicy roll with scallop (430 rubles), a roll with sea bass and truffle oil (450 rubles) - its tuna counterpart is prepared in Sumosan, udon with seafood (380 rubles), on which a bonito cap sways, shavings of smoked dried tuna, crispy rice dough bags with juicy crab filling(450 rub.).

The hot dishes section includes a Japanese tuna burger (310 rubles) and well-made skewers of turkey, chicken, beef, shrimp, salmon (all for 220 rubles), eggplant and tofu (150 rubles each). It’s tempting to call the beef beautiful, it’s so good. At Buba by Sumosan the juicer is working at full capacity. For 290 rub. Squeeze mixtures like grapefruit + apple + ginger, strawberry + apple + kiwi, raspberry + apple + banana into a glass. The names Kiss Me, Love Me, Eat Me still make the waitresses blush slightly when ordering, and the phrase “I’ll have another Botox, please” causes laughter at the next table. Let them laugh - the combination of apple, mint and ginger turned out to be the most energetic and is aiming for hits.

Having read an unusually appetizing, laudatory, flattering, extensively detailed review in The Village about a new sushi bar on Malaya Nikitskaya called Buba by Sumosan, I immediately rushed to look at such a gastronomic miracle. How not to break down? According to the publication, Buba by Sumosan not only cooks deliciously, they make almost the most delicious rolls in Moscow and for only 400 rubles.

The new, second Buba by Sumosan turned out to be a small and cozy establishment. Everything is neat, everything is new, modern, even somewhat ascetic. White brick walls, light wood, a proper bar counter combined with a miniature open kitchen, a painted wall with peeping Japanese people. At lunchtime on weekdays, the “L”-shaped hall is completely empty, but there are a lot of staff, about ten people, and everyone is busy. Someone is arranging limes and oranges, someone is wiping down plates and cups, someone is scribbling on a laptop, someone is carrying something, sorting it out, folding it.

The menu is small and follows the concept of self-ordering, when visitors themselves mark what they want on a piece of paper with branded pens. The selection is quite standard for a Moscow sushi bar. There are no surprises. There are no innovations. And the fact that the menu was compiled by the brand chef of Sumosan restaurants, Bubker Belkhit, arouses sincere interest. Unfortunately, as soon as Buba's dishes appear on the table, interest fades and disappointment sets in.

Firstly, not all dishes listed on the menu are (or will ever be) available. Secondly, everything I tried turned out to be of low quality, both in terms of raw materials and taste.

The vaunted rolls, namely “Philadelphia Roll with Eel”, “BUBA Signature Roll” and “Crispy Roll with Eel and Avocado” (by the way, there was nothing crispy in it), turned out to be depressing in appearance, untidy, falling apart and completely bland.

The Miso Soup made an unpleasant impression. It was barely warm, the tofu cheese tasted like a first-grader's eraser, and for some reason the mushrooms were dry.

The “meat gyoza” (fried Japanese dumplings) looked untidy, and the filling had a staleness to it, which soon made itself felt, so much so that the whole day was wasted.

“Shrimp tempura” appeared before me in the form of a thin yellowish strip the thickness of a simple ballpoint pen (if anyone doesn’t believe me, I’m attaching a photo), into which a long rope somehow managed to creep. How did she fit there? How did you get there? I never received an answer. And no one crossed this dish off the bill. And finally, the main course, wasabi shrimp. It turned out so pitiful that it was a simple sad reminder of a rainy November day: no breading, no taste, no joy, just slush and only 480 rubles.

About the service I will say this: it is fast and stupid. There are many workers, but little use. The dishes are delivered haphazardly and the orders are mixed up. In my case, the main dishes were brought first, then hot appetizers, and at the end, “the best rolls in Moscow.”

The result is this:

Apart from the interior, there is nothing interesting in Buba by Sumosan. The service is below average, the food is bad, and the prices are not the most affordable. What is especially depressing is the fact that a well-known and very beloved man is responsible for all this despondency.

Did not eat sushi two or three years. And there was almost no pull. There was almost no desire to be disappointed again. If you lose your virginity a second time, then good location. I didn’t eat because I didn’t want to put anything in my mouth. A Uzbek cuisine I love Uzbek restaurants.

Minimalistic, as it should be interior, everything is extremely simple - you already believe in food. Only within such walls can there be food. Menu and a pen. Minimalist. That's it, "draw right there." Well, I made the order. For the first time - myself. Of course, this is designed for regulars - I would have to ask a couple of times: “what kind of roll is this?”, “what is...?”.

Of course, miso (200 rubles) is brought first - simple and exemplary at the same time, for my universe, at least. Aroma, taste, lightness.

Salad of two fish (550 rub.) - blonde curls in a ring of six thin strips, salmon and tuna with spicy sauce. Laconically, or more directly, then simply, simply.

Roll Tuna Wrap with eel and red caviar (430 rub.) is very small - half a pencil of eel in the center, with avocado, a “log” divided into six pieces, and bloody tuna with caviar on top, a piece on each piece. The ginger is wonderful, I haven’t had any luck lately, apparently they’re skimping on it. The rest is not remembered - there is no brightness...

Tiradito set (550 rubles), “the little son came to his father.” Who is Baby, who is Dad, I hope it’s clear. Eight slices, micro-strips, two each of the fish type, all together about forty grams, with crispy rice-like crisps, which are complemented with ponzu sauce. Very little, but delicious.

Total. A Japanese restaurant that has never existed in St. Petersburg - there were others, there were good ones, but nothing like this existed. And now, with “fish”, its prices and supplies to the provinces of the regions, this will never happen again. During the day there is an empty room for the only guest, perhaps because there is no discount, and for lunch in the middle of the day the plates are too ridiculous. It’s difficult to recommend a place where the minimum set of dishes by weight to achieve at least some “male lunch satiety” must be considered... ten dishes. And this is more than 5000 rubles. On the other hand, if you don’t take into account the portions of fish that tend to empty at 12,900/kg, this is probably better than stuffing yourself with an incomprehensible product “four large rolls for the price of one”? As I said, having made a circle, Japanese food should again become rare from a kiosk - a dozen places in Moscow, expensive, and of high quality. Just like before the 2004 revolution. Hooray!

Sushi satisfied my hunger, thank you. Now for another three years. Hope. I'll go, I'll have some lunch... Satisfy my hunger. Always yours, Boris.